Some people fall in love with oysters later in life, drawn in by the romance of a coastal raw bar or sheer peer pressure. Not Andrej Urosevic. For him, it started at age three.
“My father took me to a local festival in Croatia. We pulled up to a guy shucking oysters. He handed me one. I had no idea whether I should object or not, so I just went, ‘Alright, down the gullet, bam.’ And that was it. I became conscious.”
Andrej, known as Britain’s first fish sommelier1, is more widely recognized these days for his Instagram project to cook every fish in the world. But in our chat, it was all about oysters—especially those in London, where he lives.
Andrej’s Oyster Recos in London
For newcomers, he recommends starting at Fin and Flounder in Hackney East London on Saturdays. “You get the buzz, you get the vibe, you get the atmosphere.” For something seated: The Pearly Queen in Shoreditch by Tom Brown (“He doesn’t like me very much, but he’s a really good chef, so I don’t give a shit, I’m happy to recommend him”), or Scott’s in Mayfair for old-school glamour and a solid raw selection. For a middle-tier experience, Wright Brothers offers reliability and variety. He also points to Borough Market’s Furness Fishmongers for a casual, decadent stop that includes oysters, uni, and caviar. And if you want to talk oysters with someone truly passionate, he tips his hat to Bobby Groves, Rex Goldsmith at The Chelsea Fishmonger and, of course, The Mothershucker himself, Nick Marcus.
Still, London’s oyster scene has a blind spot. “We do not have a proper oyster bar,” Andrej said. “A place with a dozen different types of oysters to choose from. If you really want to stand out, it’s all about variety.”
Andrej’s Dream 13
Naturally, I asked what his dream oyster tasting would look like. Here’s his lineup—13 in total, curated with intention:
